A Box of Birds

Day 27 : Kingston to Bluff to Invercargill 201km cycled

2011-11-28T17:23:00.001-08:00

Doing a quick check to see what my last day would entail I realised that I could have just over 200km to cycle today if I couldn't get lift back to Invercargill once I had reached bluff. For some buzzard reason I never contemplated not doing it - wasn't an option having made it this far yet this would be over 60km more to do in one day than I had ever managed to do since I set off. I felt on top form and the weather was perfect - what could go wrong?! This was after all pretty much flat all through this area....

Well flat it wasn't but a breeze all the to Winton it was arriving there by midday and stopping for an hour to grab sandwich and tea. And well then whoever had been keeping an eye on me that day either went out for the night or decided life was too boring watching me do this too easily so it was decided to add a few things to the mix... bit of rain, head wind, increase the traffic and watch those milk trucks laugh as they speed up and send volumes of water hurtling over you and cycle feeling like these next 30km could be your last.

Nightmare only turned as my biker friends honked from behind cheering me on and sending out well wishes and see ya in Invercargill as they passed me by ... turned out to be enough inspiration and two hours from Winton I arrived in Invercargill at 3:15pm amazed I was already here but absolutely soaked through!

Having discovered that this weekend was the Burt Munro Challenge (hero of mine with a record for fastest land speed record for motorbike 1000cc s) I suddenly realised as I passed all these no vacancy signs that accommodation could be an issue that night. Surprisingly though the central Tuatara backpackers had a bed in dorm for me so I soon grabbed the panniers, locked the bike, grabbed a towel and headed for a hot shower... bliss, followed by tea, walk to see the 'Indian' sitting in its case in one of the central malls and throwing my clothes including sneakers into the dryer.

Wasn't till 6pm when the weather changed, my things had dried that I was redressed and on my bike again having debated about seeing my friend James playing instead at the theatre as found out Loons Burlesque was in town. Being so close and flight first thing in morning there was no option but to go now.

Thinking the weather was going my way was soon dispelled as I found myself battling a head wind all the way and the beautifully flat road that I should have been speeding along at around 30km an hour turned into a battle of will vs wind as it took me two hours to reach the 28km and touchdown in Bluff.

Shagged (means exhausted generally) my visions of dancing around to the parade of onlookers clapping enthusiastically to my arrival was tuned down to a brief turn around the pole that was displaying the I made it sign and propping my bicycle up whilst I looked into the camera and mustered up a "I'm here" cry! With the uke remaining firmly inside the pannier and no cars ready to take me back to Invercargill I got back on the bike exhausted and wondering if I would make it through this one horse town and towards the relative metropolis of Invercargill. With a change of heart the wind came to the side then behind me as the daylight soon disappeared and for the first time I turned my cycle lights on. As the final 10km came and I was cycling in darkness the rain decided to join in and an hour and a half from leaving I arrived back into Invercargill and pulled up to the backpackers, showered and eyed up the steep climb to my top bunk before launching into a profound sleep - oh actually before the bed launch I searched food, found MacDonalds instead and satisfied my overgrown hunger with an angus!

Zzzzzzzz

Day 26 Lake Hawea to Kingston 119km via Cardrona

2011-11-28T16:38:00.001-08:00

"Core blimey", she said as she pulled up into the Kingston campground "that was a long haul!", little did she realise how far she would be cycling the next day ... but I'm jumping ahead let's wind that back a little to the start of the day.

Left Hawea around 8:30 having to leave key in door as all quiet in main building. Found no matter what I did I couldn't get the odo to work - felt like missing a friend - it was to start again half way through tomorrow!

Quick cycle to Wanaka with wee bit of hill - didn't hang around justa few snaps of the large hand at the lake and a few supplies from supermarket for the journey and carried on. After the miserable weather of the last two days it was a relief to be on the road again in good weather and feeling on good form.

At Wanakai had to make the choice to go over the high road through Cardrona or along the longer but flatter road through Cromwell - hills what hills give me what ya can! So I headed towardsC Cardrona unsure whether (a) I was on the right road and (b) what I was in for!

It's abut hard to describe the sheer magnificence of the road I found myself on as I started heading closer to the stunning snowy capped mountain range that had been luring me towards its rugged exterior for the last couple of days. It's presence heightened by the hills that were gaining in height and swallowing myself and bicycle into their outstretched arms.

Finding myself on a bit of a plateau the temperature was dropping to a gentil crispness whilst the sun continued to warm from above. Before I knew it I found myself passing the exit to the Cardrona ski field - the barrier down and a closed sign being the only sign of life there.

Cycling on I arrived at the wee township of Cardrona and felt I had dropped into a movie set. The old Cardrona Hotel standing proudly in its newly renovated coat beckoning its clientele with its wizened face and engaging smile... how could I resist stepping back in time by following its lead.

I was greeted by a gorgeous fire already lit at what was now midday. The bar encased in its jail bar frame, door open with barrels peeping out over the wooden bar. I walked up to the bar grabbed a shot of whiskey and thought about the lover I had just shot dead... Whoops that's ma wee song taking over again (see Ed's Bar and Grill for more of that!). Reality ... walked up to the bar and ordered the Devonshire tea ... well those fruit scones looked delicious!

Spent time reading up on history of area from fab book made up by the owners and found another story for my collection. Picked up the guitar from the corner and played 'Ed's Bar and Grill" to the rather dull tourists who were in .. felt this bar make great place for the video minus the current clientele of course...

Headed out to bike and found two blokes - father and son who were from Dunedin and doing my cycling trip the other way - first nz cycle tourers and last that I met over the whole month (aside from me that is). They asked me for advice so gave them my ten top tips of where to stay, roads to avoid etc.

Cycled on climbing higher and higher till the lush green hills gave way to golden tussock and I found myself closed in on all sides until I eventually reached the top. Excitement as I spied two lovely looking motorbikes. Chatted to the bikers who were from Tauranga and had made the bikes. With tales of my cycling experiences being retold they offered to take piccie of me on their bike - of course it would have rude to have declined!

From there leaving the bikers fixing one of the bikes I found myself on a very steep and rapid decline - glad I had changed my brake pads a few days ago!

Bottom of the hill I trotted right towards Arrowtown. Little confusing finding centre but beneath the ironed houses with their perfect lawns lay the original heart of this town with its beautifully preserved historic shops and houses - I was in nineteenth century heaven :-)

An hour looking around, grabbing story and contacts from museum I headed off again turning left before Queenstown, through the industrial mall of Frankton and along the lakeside road that caught me off my bike taking many photos of the surrounding mountains as finally I caught up with those that had been tempting me these last days.

As night began to draw in I saw the distant lights of Kingston and past the Flyer (the steam engine) I pulled up to what turned out to be a somewhat run down and most over priced campsite at $20 for tent - the shower and hot water were welcomed though.

Day 25: Makarora to Lake Hawea

2011-11-21T10:19:00.001-08:00

Got up early again this morning and recorded one of my songs of the 1800s that I had written by the fire - should have recorded it by the lit fire the night before but no one was there at that time in the morning 6:30am so good opportunity before they all started having showers.

ANyway I thought the weather was a lot better than the day before despite the locals saying that the farmers had said today would be worse and I should wait another day. Packed up gear and headed over to office to drop off keys to be met by the girl who works in the bar asking me if my name was Rachel and not to panic but the police were looking for me - I instantly knew it would be the fact that I had not been able to drop a line on my blog/facebook page and that my parents were worried. Having spoken to the police to reassure them I was ok and that fortunately I had come over the pass the day before yesterday missing the terrible weather I headed off down the road.

My so called good day lasted an hour before the wind got up to what felt like gale force and the rain hit hard at times almost forming hailstones. The road was beautiful of what I could see of it but the next couple of hours were torture as I could feel my body temperature dropping quickly as the icy winds took hold of me and I started to worry about hyperthermia realising that I was quite a long way from any form of township still....I just kept cycling and walked a couple of times up some hills to try and be able to fold my hands over to keep them warm. I was soaked through and freezing.

Finally in the distance I could see Lake Hawea and just kept trying to aim for there whilst the feeling in my legs finally lost all sense of temperature and I knew I was in trouble if I didn't get into a hot shower soon. Having now whshed I had listened to the farmers I finally arrived at the first lodge at Lake Hawea passing the campsite as a definite no ..... I stood in the hallway of the hotel and immediately three of the staff said to me you look blue....very quickly I was given a room key and shown to the showers and handed a towel, stripped off and spent the next what felt like an hour under the shower trying to warm up each part of my body again. Eventually I felt I came back to some sort of normality got dressed had a cup of tea and started to dry my clothes.

The day was spent in front of a very large fire in the main part of the hotel and I grabbed a burger from the closed kitchen grateful for shelter, warmth and hot food. The rain didn't let off till after 3pm and at that stage the day suddenly looked different - I kept feeling I should hop on my bike and go further but everything I had was still drying and so I gave in and stayed for the night realising that that would mean I would have two days to get from here (which was much further than I realised - thought I had only cycled 30km but it was over 50km so that was a good start) to Invercargill and then Bluff.

I would have to go over the Cardrona road which apparently has snow on it at the moment but hopefully that will clear a little by today.

Still that will be tomorrow's story.....

Day 24: Makarora - weather too bad to go

2011-11-21T10:01:00.001-08:00

So today was a frustrating day in that I knew that not going today was going to cause me difficulties along the way and relied on tomorrow to get me to Queenstown which turned out to be impossible in the end again because of the weather.

In my dorm which was really a four bedded chalet that I shared with a lovely woman from Holland and we got on really well and spent the evening before chatting and going for a drink at the bar in the lodge and meeting many of the locals there who are also really fab.

The day until midday was spent continuing our chats and showing my roommate what I was up to and talking about the process of how I was writing these songs. Was great to share the whole experience with someone whoo was so interested in the whole thing.
At midday she had to catch her magic bus and head on to Wanaka. We worked out that we would meet in Queenstown the following evening - which unfortunately wasn't going to happen being hampered by the rain. I spent the rest of the day writing up some of the blogs ready to post when I could get cellphone coverage whic wouldn't be until close to Wanaka.

Fell asleep in the room which I now had to myself for a few hours and then popped back to the bar to read a book and catch up with the locals more. Its a really interesting place - only really a handful of people all mainly from different countries but all who once arrived couldn't move on anywhere else - it is a stunning place.

The Pipson family seem to be the earliest family around the area in the 1890s from what I could gather. The fat of making that pass through the Hasst reminds me of all the incredibly hard working people who made the infrastrucutre that we enjoy today - the roads, the train tracks....you can't even begin to imagine what the conditions would have been like and knowing how the weather kicks in at a drop of a hat over here and the extreme conditions you get I am sure there were many casualties along the way.

It was going to be an early start if I was to get to Queenstown the next day. I was relieved not to have tried to go out in today's weather - worst I had seen it since I started...howling winds and rain like the end of the earth had come! Glad I was in my cabin and not my tent...but I was going to have to pay for this luxury in making up the miles lost over my last couple of days.

Day 22: Fox Glacier to Lake Paringa

2011-11-20T15:41:00.001-08:00

From the really wet night in Fox Glacier I spent until 11am working on the bike to make sure that all was ok - like changing the brake pads at the front and getting some oil on it and sorting out a few other things - drying the tent etc. Nice to have clean clothes again .

Knew it was quite a short day with just 69km down to Lake Paringa. A number o f hills along the way and met quite a few cyclists usually in twos or threes going the other way. I was trying to work out whether to continue on to the Hasst but as it was over another 50km to get there and having stopped a lot along the way taking piccies of the stunning scenery that wasn't an option as had left too late.

Met a german couple who were cycling in my direction and we passed each other a number of times along the way. Seemed to take a long time to get to Bruce Bay but I think that was due to the fact that I had left late but could feel my mussel around my knees starting to kick in.

I stopped just outside of Mahitahi to have some lunch and that was my definite downfall - it was a Salmon Farm and had the most gorgeous soup with lots of their local salmon appearing in it. Unfortunately when I hopped back on the bike it was obvious that that was not going to work for me having filled me up too much - still lovely to have had but meant that by the time I had hit Lake Paringa I was ready to stop even though it was only around 70km.

Lake Paringa was beautiful but talk about sandfly city - horrible but lovely people who were staying and met up with this french lass 'Olivia' who was also cycling on her own- the other direction.She seemed to have all my gear plus a whole trailer. How she was getting up the hills I don't understand! Must have great low gears unlike mine. Was really impressed with all she had done- arrived in NZ bought the bike and panniers off Trade Me and then hired the trailer offa local bike shop so there you she obviously had it sorted.

Day 23: Lake Paringa to Makarora

2011-11-20T15:36:00.001-08:00

192 km - 55 km = 137km total that day

So this was the most incredible day that I have yet experienced. Whether it was the fact that I couldn't wait to get out of the sandfly city that I had found myself in at Lake Paringa but I was non the road by 8:40am and feeling in great form which made a big change to how I felt the day before. This feeling was to stay with me for the whole day to such an extent that even by the end of it when I had managed to clock up a whopping amount of km I still felt I could carry on cycling - would have gone all the way to Wanaka had the time been with me but decided that 6:30pm was not a good time to decide to continue on to Wanaka form Makarora where I had decided to make my stop having passed by two of the DOC campsites.

The cycling from Lake Paringa was with a few notable hills on the way - the first being a steep climb to Knights Point where I stopped and took some more shots before coasting downhill and then doing the old up and down until I reached Haast where I pulled around midday. Walked into the DOC office and had a good chat to the woman in the centre about how far I should travel that day and if the weather was going to kick in which it was predicted to tdo the following day then getting over the Hasst would be a good idea.

I had originally settled on just getting to Pleasant Point but when I arrived there at 4:30pm after having stopped for lunch at the cafe in Hasst also gettinga few supplies and meeting a lovely Australian family who chatted with me and took piccie of my website on my bike to follow my journey, I aksed this bus driver about the distance and he wasn't sure but then finding myself getting attacked by sandflies once again I felt that this was not a place I wanted to stay and as the weather was good it was better to move on.

So the big climb through the pass started and I found myself having to once again push the bike up a fair bit of it but I didn't mind the workout giving my bum some time out and showing me some amazing views. It was a definite steep continuous climb though but not the horrendous experience I had thought it might be which I was really pleased about.

I stopped a number of times just to get some more water and to give my heart time to calm down again. No one offered to give me a lift but hey I didn't care I was really enjoying it. By the time I realised I had reached the pass itself and was on top pretty much on the flat top I was loving it and made it to the end of the pass before it all started turning into a massive downhill road of ecstacy by 5:30pm.

At this point I felt great and a huge sense of achievement and soo pleaesd that I had carried on and not stopped where I had originally planned for. I continued passed Cameron Flat the other DOC campsite that I had thought about staying in and onto the wee township of Makaroa where there was a great lodge. By this time it was 6:30pm and although I felt so fit and very able to continue down to Wanaka it was the time that put me off goint any further and I must have clocked up loads of kms anyway.

Walked into the lodge to be greeted by the bus driver I had met at Pleasant Point and he was surprised to see me there already. Booked into the dorm for the night as felt I had definitely worked hard for a night on a real bed - the first since leaving Christchurch a few days back now. Turned out my dorm was actually a chalet that I shared with a dutch woman called Petra - lovely person whom I got on really well with.

Day 21: 15km north of Franz Joseph) to Fox Glacier Lake Mapourika

2011-11-17T12:08:00.001-08:00

So last night Biddy and Mike offered me a lift to Franz Joseph as that was my intended destination. KNowing that I had to catch up on all my blogs that day I took the 15km lift gratefully and spent the next couple of hours in a cafe in Franz Joseph before deciding to head on my way to Fox Glacier now that the weather seemed to be good.

I knew that today was going to be a day full of hills and I had been warned that that plus catching on of the glaciers would be all that I would feel like that day. Indeed with a few added extras it turned out to be a fabulous day despite the many downpours that I got caught in during the course of it.

But i digress... them there hills as one would say were certainly that and the 21km felt long and arduous with me walking a fair bit of it with the cycle since the weight of the bike and the lack of really low gears showed itself once again....struggling with a bike up those hills is not so easy....my cycle is 18 kilos and the combined tent and two panniers are another 20 or 25 at least so imagine a very heavy suitcase that you are lugging up and down hills -well I did cycle some of the way....still those 21km took me two hours to do!

Once arrived I checked out a few likely staying places - eyed up the backpackers but felt it was too indulgent even though I had stayed at two doc sites the last two nights....went down to the Holiday Park (not my favourite places) but the lady was so friendly and once she found out I was doing this cycle for CHch Women's Refuge and she was from Christchurch she insisted I stayed for free - I was really grateful for the generosity and for the thought and understanding abou the difficulties that so many are facingi in Christchurch and how hard it seems to be for people to understand that so many are still without a normal living -broken homes that they have to stay in, no decisions about their home, many lost their jobs, suicide has increase rapidly as has domestic violence -its the emotional struggles that are coming to the fore now as people have to deal with out of the ordinary circumstances.

So pitched the tent and headed around town to check out the few buildings and think about when to go to the glacier. By this time the weather started packing in and by the time I reached the very welcoming bar/cafe/saloon it was a downpour. Grateful for my tent being up and me in a place with a fire I wondered whether I had made the righ choice about camping.

Few hours later and most of the blogs and emails done and photographs moved across the sun came out and I decided after my pint of Monteiths and a crazy amount of chips that I was given (not a fan of hot chips at the best of times but cheapest thing on the menu and the beer was heaven!) I headed off to the glacier thinking of recording a song out there as a trial.

Anyway it turned out I struck this amazing cycle path all the way to the carpark which went through this magical underworld - hard to describe it and the piccies don't do it justice either but you know The Lord of the Rings aka Peter Jackson special well I was there in that magical world between the hobbits and David Bowie and his Labyrinth....I had the best time cycling through that track and with only one pannier I was as light as a feather an able to cope with the offroad cycling path -with my slick tires! I did remember though that I had still not changed my front brake pads - tomorrow's important task before heading off!

So from there it was to the glacier - I was hoping darkness wouldn't come about too soon as it was already about 6:30pm. Made it to the glacier experimenting with my camera on the way trying to take a video of me cycling once I met the unsealed road heading to the carpark.....from there its a reasonable walk to the glacier.

I had no idea whether that worked or not but it was quite a mission riding with one hand on the cycle and the other holding the camera trying to get some good shots whilst navigatingthe rocky road and the odd passing car.

Once at the carpark I locked the bike and the weather still seemed to be good so started heading to the glacier. Passed a few people and walked briskly knowing that time was not on my side. After 15 mins walk/run I made it to a spot with a good view of the tip and set up my ipad to record my firs video with me and the uke. Decided on an oldy - Laid Down and Put to Rest that I had written as part of the Ed's Bar and Grill album a couple of years ago and had a go - seemed to be ok.

Just as I finished I noticed the clouds had gathered and were threatening the relative sunny conditions with a definite desire to rain on all... packing up the gear quickly into my panier I legged it to the car park passing a couple of people who I advised to turn back because rain was coming soon.

Made it to the carpark just as the rain started and ducked into the toilet shelter with bike and all hoping it would pass.With a wee break I took off down the road but was soon greeted with a heavy downpour and hada 6km cycle back to the township in my only change of clothes that were now sodden...

Making it back to the campsite I gathered the last dry and clean bitsleft which were my thermals,a pair of shorts and my tshirt for night, stripped to my knickers and bra in the laundry whilst two french girls looked out for me and shoved everything I had into the washing machine.....phew all done..

Took to the hot showers and made some soup and toast with brie for dinner - the second pint of beer was forgotten as I set to being warm. Spent the rest of the evening sorting out gear and catching up on more blogs and adding video and planning tomorrows day.

So that's it - clothes washed and dried - tent was cold last night but I slept anyway and today the sun is back after the continuous rain last night so lets hope it stays away for a while......x

Day 20: Lake Mahinapura to Lake Mapourika 115km

2011-11-16T20:32:00.001-08:00

Is that spelt correctly? Will have to double check at a later date. You will have to forgive me about these blogs but the gear I'm using does mean a few things are limited -like I can't resize the piccies and pop them in the right place in the blog and well don't always double check my spelling so you'll have to forgive the general casual nature of this but well at least you're getting something!

Anyway started from this great DOC campsite (stands for Department of Conservation if you don't know the reference and I can honestly say that every camping site that belongs to DOC has been superb apart from the free one which was a bit of a knoblbly field and didn't feel so safe.

Anyway this was a long day cycling in fact 115 km - to date the longest cycle yet. I was honoured by a glorious day which meant that I stopped rather a lot to take piccies and most importantly to to collect some more information on women in this area. I spent over an hour in a tiny wee place called Ross which is connected to Hokitika because of its gold mining past - a past that still continues today but unfortunately not in the way it used to be. Before I ran about that let me say how welcome the lady at the wee museum made me feel and she soon showed me to the right collections to find what I was searching for. There are a couple of women here that would be worth looking into further and both with interesting stories to tell. Her museum colleague was going to do some further investigation to see what they could bring up locally also so that was great and I went around taking lots of piccies.

We also spoke about the gold mining and the museum lady told me that the gold mining was still going on but modern methods are a far cry from the individual miners who roamed NZ fossiking for gold and taking small bits that helped them get by. Nowadays its the large machines owned by essentially a businessman who has nothing to do with the locals rape the land-that is the only way as harsh as it sounds that I can use to put across the horrendous scarring that is going on just outside Ross. She told me to look at what was going on on my way out and to see why the locals are so upset and yet powerless to do anything about it. All this going on in some of the most previously unspoilt natural bush we have. We have learnt nothing and the continuous placcards with the ever smiling businessman John Key kept reminding me of the New Zealand that I continuously struggled to comprehend.

After the mixed emotions of leaving Ross behind I made my way south through what I can only describe as some of the most spectacular sceney to date. Immediately I say now to skip the rest of NZ and head to the West Coast for full gorgeous beaches, ever growing mountains capped with snow as you gently make your way across rolling roads through the rugged landscape that cries out "Just you try and make something so beautiful"....I swear I spent most of the time on the cycle completely in awe.

I fell in love with a town that consisted of two buildings - a pub and a cafe - all you need to survive I feel. The former closed the other my stop for a cup of tea and a lovely fruit scone and a chat with the owner. It was like cowboy/bushman heaven and inside two guys sitting down looked up and one of them laughed and said - you're doing alright I passed you by in Ross and you've caught up with me!!

With the seats covered in the different species that had been shot by the owners over the twenty years that they were there I laughed at all the antics on display - with many a pointed placard set up to delve into the disastifactions that I had been feeling since returning to NZ - I had felt like I had found my home here in the minds of the Westies? My favourite placard added to my photo album below.

So the day was to move on and I clocked up 100km before the sore legts started kicking in and managed another 15km before the temptation of a DOC campsite by a river 15km from what was going to be my final destination (Franz Joseph) won me over - especially as lovely English couple pulled up behind me in their camper as I was negotiating with myself to invite me to dine with them on the grounds that they had offered a glass of wine only to realise they had drunk it the night before!!

With the kindness of the offer and the promise of a lovely evening chatting with new friends I found a spot for my tent on top of the bank over lookingg the river whilst a number of camprs over the evening appeared and disappeared and stayed.....

Turns out that Mike and Biddy are from Exeter and Mike had just completed a five month cycle through the USA - - Biddy had met him in NZ and together they were touring NZ in the campervan. I was in awe of Mike's adventure with bear stories and other fascinating tales. I would love to cycle through the states but I fear after the bear encounters I would want to do that with someon else with me - we just have a few birds that come out to play - like my friendly weka last night that was trying to make off with the rest of the pasta I had made in my wee pot.

And so endeth one of the most satisfying cycling days over number of hills but forever heading towards the mountains and the glaciers.

Day 19 Christchurch to Greymouth to just south of Hokitika - train and cycle

2011-11-16T19:07:00.001-08:00

So finally I was on the road again. Having left my music gear behind at Susan's in still war torn Christchurch I headed off finding the train station and making it on time despite the rather early 7:45am check in time! Off we went at 8:15 and I had been looking forward to this immensely as it was taking me across Arthurs Pass and through some really magnificent scenery. Unfortunately the train did not match the wonderful smooth trip I had had the day before on the new train that they had actually made in Dunedin - after much harranging the governmnet not to get it made overseas. It was certainly not a patch on that....

Still despite the somewhat jolty ride and the busy train with too many tourists trying to get shots in the one open viewing car for my liking - the journey was great. I was a bit tired after the antics of the night before and hoped I would get some energy soon for the coming cycling afternoon.....a wee bit of a snooze and plenty of photo shots saw me come right and after arriving at 1pm at Greymouth I got my bits together knocking off my sunglasses in the processes thinking rain was coming and then forgetting to pick them up. Unfortunately realising five minutes later and dashing back to the platform was five minutes too late as someone had popped them into their own pockets - was surprised that they had not been handed in. As I was quietly niggling at the dishonesty of people wondering if it was someone who had hopped on a tourist bus this guy comes up to me and hands me over his sunglasses having heard of what had taken place. After his insistence and remark that they were returning to the UK tomorrow and there was no sun there anyway I gratefully accepted his generosity and headed south feeling he had made up for the pre thief!

It turned out that the road from Greymouth to Hokitika was a dream - so lovely and flat and my cycle and I covered the ground quickly soon arriving 40km down the road into Hokitika. I stopped off to a cafe for acup of tea and a look round a gallery and was singing one of my new songs "Barbara Weldon" as I walked down Revell Street where she had once swaggered through in her slightly drunken state before finding some work for the night - keeping at least body alive if not soul.

Her world seemed so far away from the streets that I now saw as the hotels closed down to tourist shops, the cafes inviting passing tourists but not offering the morsels she had for sale.....only a hundred and forty years.....gone were those bustling streets that saw forty hotels on Revell St in its gold mining prime and here were the remnants of those days displayed in the fab museum and in a few random signs hinting at days of glory ? gone by.

As the clear blue sky gave way to thickening clouds I took that as a hint to make my way to the DOC campsite before getting caught in the coming rain. 10km down the road did see me caught out slightly but fortunately enough time to get into camp with ten t up and gear inside before too much damage was done. An hour of brief sunshine gave me time to wander around the lake, make dinner on my stove and get all done before putting on the thermals for the night - the air was decidedly colder tonight.

Day 18 Picton to Christchurch Train

2011-11-16T18:46:00.001-08:00

So in order to catch up to my schedule (I was on a tight schedule having to meet in my flight from Invercargill to Chch on the morning of the 24th November) I decided that I would be taking the train ( a new south island experience for me) from Picton to Chch and then the following morning catching the train from chch to Greymouth.

I managed to get the gear across to the train in plenty of time which was good as it took about an hour to sort all out and get it ticketed, stored and finally handed over when the train arrived. I was very nervous about the safety of my guitar after the train guys popped it ontop of backpacks saying it was safest up there- I had visions of it all coming tumbling down and my expensive gibson at the bottom of the heap.....I managed to distract myself with the magnificent scenery and the just fabulous train journey. I loved every minute of it and its whole four hours whisked me away in sheer awe of this beautiful country I come from. Defo a must for all those kiwi and tourists when you come to town....

It was only capped off from the sheer delight in seeing my friend Susan - or Camp Mother as she has become and I Camp Leader (Topp Twins if you are confused look em up!). Needless tosay the evening was just not long enough and plenty of merriment was hard on on guitar and banjo alike with perhaps a bottle of white along the way...not easy to wake up the next day from a day like that!

Day17 Interislander Ferry Wellington to Picton

2011-11-16T18:33:00.001-08:00

First off a big thank you to Sue for getting me to Wellington with all my gear and an equally big thank you to Mike for dropping me at the Ferry Terminal.....I managed to leave a couple of things behind but nothing that in retrospect wasn't rather good that I had!!

Thirdly HUGE thank you to Interislander Ferry for supporting me by donating my ferry ticket with me and the bike - we had had many shifts ofd date and time and always met with a very happy to alter person at the other end so HUGE thanks for that - really helps reduce the costs of the whole cycle tour.

The crossing was the most extraordinary day and I took loads of photographs and videos of the crossing -including the opening of the ship when in port (as I was first off with my cycle - a first for that!). I can highly recommend anyone reading this that a must is this crossing- its like booking a cruise through the sounds just sheer spectacular scenery as you enter the malborough sounds and of course bifd farewell to my favourite city Wellington.

Picton was in good form and arrivingat 6pm I made my way to a nearby backpackers that I had seen on the net called "The Villa". Had a great night here meeting loads of travellers once again and enjoying good wine over an outside fire recounting stories of my adventures on the road and hearing of the experiences of all the others as they emerged from different parts of the world. A good night and made better by realising that my second ever royalties payment had come through and it was finally a decent amount - finally it felt like I was on the road to feeling that I could really develop this into a decent living. Perhaps one day all the hard work and the countless hours and often brow beatings would count for something - a world away from my relatively cushy lifestyle pushing buttons from 9 to 5.There was nothing easy about this road to working as a full time musician/songwriter but the rewards on the way and the immense feeling of satisfaction were completely unknown feelings to me from my previous life.....finally I felt there was a point to my life.

So in celebration of my royalties I sat on a park bench over looking the se, sitting eating fish and chips before buying a bottle of wine and sharing the open fire with new friends at the hostel.

Good times :-)

Day 15 & 16 Rest Days and Travel

2011-11-16T18:19:00.001-08:00

Day 15 was spent arranging my gear and sorting out how I was going to get it down to Christchurch (this is my amp and guitar) -needed for gigs post Chch.

Worked out that I could put all I needed in terms of different clothing post cycle into the pannier bags along with myc cycling gear and balance the amp on the back of the bicycle (all 16kilos of it) with my tent on top and with my guitar on my back - manageable for short distances walking of course!

Day 16 was travelling down in the car with Sue to Wellington dropping me all the way to my friends in Island Bay who like Sue and Gary put me up for a night once again (this weary traveller returns or should that be homeless waif?!). Felt strange having anotherday of rest but great to catch up with Mike and Jane and the kids and to have the delight of one of the kids and her friends all entertaining us with 'ABBA' dancing for the night - definitely brought back memories with my friend Casie H and myself strutting our stuff when we were 10 years old or maybe that was 13?! Just shows you there is no time limit on great songs and their enjoyment to all different generations.

My two days rest in the North Island were also met with the realization that I had in fact cycled over 1,060km in two weeks -the length of New Zealand. There was some heart to be taken in that feat for sure.....

Day 14 wanganui to Palmerston North

2011-11-16T12:44:00.001-08:00

Having realized what a fantastic back packers this was i wished I had come back after the pint and sang and chatted away as it turns out that the cyclist who waved to me was also a lone cycle tourer from Belgium and had been asked in to the school for cup of tea, saw me pass, and had tried to catch up with me. Bizarre was he went to same back packers but having seen my bike couldn't find me until the morning! We swapped a few stories and hope to catch him at some point but he was staying on to visit a farm etc and I had deadlines to make.

Wish I had stayed too as today ended up being the worst cycle ride of the whole trip to date. What should have been an easy 70km pretty flat (except first part) road ended up being a road of head winds for the entire trip and I struggled getting passed 13km.

Having left at 9am I should have had loads of time to reach palmy in time for gig but with two 10min stops only I only made it to Shannon at 2:30pm absolutely exhausted and legs about to burst. Rang through to cancel gig. Felt soo deflated. Rain started and had to work between walking and cycling to make last 15km. I arrived in at 4:30pm thoroughly broken and felt like I had really let myself down and palmy and in the end wellington for next day. They were both so understanding though and rebooking for later without cycle.

I think I realized that trying to do these long days where I had not allowed for any rest days, plus the specific time for gigs and collecting stories was too much. Average of between 80-100km a day was enough with stopping to collect stories where appropriate so that's what I decided to do till the end and was the best decision for my own sanity. I was pleased though to get another emailed story from wanganui a few days later though. Almost there with the missing areas for my collection and next stage.

Needless to say apart from the piccie of me with the Belgium cyclist at the hostel no piccies were taken that day - no time and nothing to take - dull scenery, horrendous traffic and head wind does not a happy cyclist make!

Day 13: Ohakune to Wanganui

2011-11-16T12:27:00.001-08:00

After a fab night at 'the hobbit' in Ohakune including spa and own room for 25 bucks I went on my way down the road ready for a big cycle day.Yesterday's ride had been fantastic even though it was hampered with the drizzle and cold air but the scenery (what I could see of it - National park but no views on that day) made up for it.

This trip though from Ohakune was about as perfect as it could have been both in terms of weather, ease of cycling, and fantastic scenery! What an amazing trip!!

I would definitely recommend any cyclist to make this trip - the lush vegetation, magnificent views, quirky locals (seen in the shoe fence), all made to make the day one of the most beautiful! Little traffic on the road which is every cyclists delight. Getting over 100km was still tiring though and as I approached Wanganui I could feel that it was enough. Passed a school on the way in and saw cyclist waving at me - story there tomorrow! A real rarity to see another cycle tourer.

Made it to Wanganui and over an hour to spare before the library gig. I had set off from Ohakune at 8:40am and was there by 2:45pm with a couple of wee stops enroute and a whole lotta stops for piccies - can only paste few here!

Great staff at library and enjoyable gig with some great feedback about wanting to get album and book when out so on the right track! Headed into town and went for back packers. Checked in and walked to town and for treat bought pint English Ale and went to see Anonymous at the cinema - enjoyable just to see London in Elizabethan times!! Oh forgot to mention that the heavens opened when walked to town and stayed that way all night - but I was in cozy bed inside- excellent call!!

Day 12. Taumaranui to Ohakune

2011-11-08T22:44:00.001-08:00

Cor this was a long day that was made to feel longer by the numerous hills that seemed to begin the ride. I stopped a few times out of general knackeredness and the fact that I really didn't want to leave the campground as was obvious by my tardy departure of around 11am!!!

Stopped in fabbo pub/hotel and met some equally lovely people as in the campground. Andrea made me a great bacon and cheese toastie and chattered away with another lass who worked as a diary farmer nearby.

After my indulgent stop the day turned to drizzle and felt as if I was back in Scotland!! Of course this was as I was traversing the National Park at an elevation of 825m and couldn't see a damn thing - hoping cars could see my wee lights or I was going to end my days as carnage on the mountains!!

Turned in at the Nationsl Psrk village for a cuppa and was indulged to the dulcet jazzy tones of a young German guy who was on his day off and playing his sax .. Say no more eh?!

Turning myself back into the dreach day I ventured forth soaked to the skin until just before Ohakune where the sun deared to poke its weary head out and indulge me for another 10km .. Till the familiarity of Ohakune welcomed me and I turned into a place called the Hobbit ... I know I vouldn't help myself!!

Day 11 Otorohonga to Taumarunui

2011-11-07T02:17:00.001-08:00

Knew this was going to be a long day to make up for yesterday's shorty! Wee bit of hill to Te Kuiti and as was feeling rather down about lack of support for refuge centre on my wee page pulled in to a cafe for first time on trip and treated myself to large cup of tea and fudge cake!! Actually Te Kuiti is quite an upmarket wee place now - catering for the passing tourist trade. Headed towards Otorohonga but it's a long road with no towns at all but would have to say its the best stretch of cycling road I've ever experienced and bliss when the trucks finally turned off towards New Plymouth and I was able to enjoy the country in relative peace - only spooking some cows on the way!!

For some reason the last 25km just seemed to last an eternity my bum getting some relief as I stand up on the bike and call out in pain to the ever listening cattle...

Stopped a lot taking piccies and going over lots of things in my mind. Came across some road repairing gangs with a trio of lovelies happy for a piccie -3 thanks Hemi, CJ and Matt for the pose!! Had the best downhill at one point getting to 54km an hour - I do relish those moments ... Especially when it's dry and no traffic - in my case the boys had stopped the traffic to let me through and I could enjoy the ride to the full!

Finally made it to campground a few km beyond Taumarunui - lovely lady here who insisted on taking piccie of me and popping up on her facetbook to help raise awareness. Great place with its herb garden ready to add to your dinner. Great kitchen dining area and gorgeous outside fire... Now bed as tomorrow it's full on hills in the national park!

Finally my body. Is starting to reshape itself from a middle age woman to the cycling nutter thAt I'm turning into!!

Day 10 Hamilton to Otorohonga

2011-11-06T02:21:00.001-08:00

Was great to have another night in a real bed and lovely to see my aunt again and catch up with all. Headed to the library - posters all up, lovely staff but obviously 11am on a Sunday does not suit so it was a welcome sight to see my aunt and uncle turn up as well as a couple of locals.

Fortunately I already have some stories around the area from when I was around there before so wasn't so bad. After but of lunch hopped back on the bike to head south. And so the heavens opened and stayed that way for the next few hours. I was absolutely soaked even before I got to the other side of hamilton. I'm not sure whether it's the fact that you just want to get to the end of the ride but all drifts into oblivion as the rain forces it's way into every nook and cranny, the water starts dripping down your back and you curse the Fonterra milk trucks as they speed passed sending large waves of water over you as you hang on to the bike trying to keep it going straight and not into the traffic.

After 40km the rain eased off and a cool head wind took its place and I had already decided that Te Kuiti was not going to happen... Otorohonga started sounding tempting - it is Kiwiana central! The duller farmlands began to give way to a more lush landscape and you could feel the change towards the natural reserves. I pulled in to otorohonga at around 5pm set up camp, dried out gear, shower, food and met some lovely Dutch and Swedish tourists in the kitchen. Tomorrow brings added miles to make up but hopefully sun and what I know to be gorgeous scenery as I head towards Taumaranui.

Day 9 Auckland to Hamilton

2011-11-05T16:36:00.001-07:00

Well today there is little to say as realizing how physically tired my body was and how I worked out that I had ridden an additional 240km already to my trip because of different routes, cycling both ways to the cape etc that I could take a bus with my cycle to hamilton which was 100km ride from pukekohe and get the much needed rest day I needed but not stopping the route and schedule I had to keep. The rainy day made sitting inside feel even more of a luxury and I found myself soon drifting to sleep dreaming of some of the stories I had found on the way. A welcome respite fora day and a night.

Day 8 Wellesford to Auckland

2011-11-05T14:51:00.001-07:00

This day seemed one of the toughest. I think I've worked out that it's often to do with the first km and whether you are struck with a hill or flat etc. I was tired setting out and aware that I made the mistake of not giving myself a rest day. The first 40 km were constant hill climbing with them dropping away only to be greeted by another in its place. I spent a number of times walking the bike up the hill because my body couldn't cope with the strain of the weight of the bike and the climbing and not being so young I was worried about my knees. I had some great views on the way and relieved not to have the heavy traffic of the main road but the route was over 40km longer and the scenery not a patch on the kauri forest road in Hokianga. When I reached the 50km point I thought I was done in. Weary and in need of rest I dropped in to the toilet came out and bumped into this logging trucker guy.i had passed numerous of these logging trucks on the road up north and they were pretty treacherous for cyclists as the wind current they create is perhaps the worst for pushing you off the road. We started talking and he asked me what I was up to. He was such a lovely person and obviously genuinely interested and talked of his uncle in chch and the difficulties he was facing. He told me how to cut through to the east coast road to get to Auckland, offered to give me his map which I thought was so lovely and asked me to write down the website details so he and his wife could donate etc. It was his generosity of spirit that enabled me to carry on and do the next 50km into Auckland and I was grateful for meeting him on the way. Ironically he also shared concern about all the logging and the barren hills as a result of mass culling. His name was Ben and for me he gave me an essence of NZ that I missed from growing up here. He was nothing flashy, not trying to prove anything, worked hard, made time to listen and to talk and showed such generosity of spirit. I welcomed the site of Devonport with its beautiful beach and relaxing vibe and most of all the comfort of meeting up with my friend Carol and the warmth of her flat for the night.

Day 7 Dargaville to Wellesford

2011-11-03T11:11:00.001-07:00

So today goes down as the best first 40km ever - in that the first 40km were pure flat and my wee bike ( I really must get a name) and I sped through kumera country passing numerous cyclists out on their bikes for morning ride.

Just as well the start was easy as didn't leave till after 11am!! No commitments apart from cycling the 100km meant a late start! Gorgeous day celebrated at cloacal diary with a hokey pokey ice cream - tip top is the best and for two bucks for supposedly a single which is really a large double ya can't complain!

Unfortunately the next 35km was constant hills and really wanted to stop off at the kauri museum but needed at least half a day for it - another for Xmas time! At 75km into the cycle I met the main a1 motorway and my idyllic cycle came to a grinding halt as I had the constant noise of fast moving traffic ringing in my ears. Was sorry I wasn't going to manawhai heads but when I have more time.

However did find and stop off at fab Dutch cheese shop and ate samples and bought drink and few slithers for later. Took piccie of this neat organic cafe but was closed - another future return!!

Made it to Wellesford around 6pm to find there was no campsite nor back packers near. Went to motel but at a 100 bucks it was out of my budget. Told to try pub so did and they are obviously busy doing rooms up but the lovely landlady let me have my own dble room for 20 bucks - amazing!! Was like luxury after camping. Pelted down with rain but cozy in pub and met lovely german guy living in the area who plays the sax. All turned out well in the end - wee accom panic at start!!

Oh and I am over a quarter of the way through having now clicked up 561km!!

Day 6 omapere to dargaville

2011-11-03T10:44:00.001-07:00

I was so reluctant to leave the loveliness of the globetrekkers back packers I had stayed in last night at Omapere - a wee treasure of a find. Finally set off just after 9am and was warned that there was a large hill to start the day... Sure enough!!

In fact it was really a constant climb through into the Kauri forest. Stopped off to see the largest of them all Tane Mahuta and caught up with the three lovely young Germans who had travelled there by van just after me. Met some tourists on the walk who asked questions about what I was doing and took photos of my website.

Really wanted to spend more time in the forest and to go to the visitor centre but knew I'd come back with my bro and nieces in a couple of months. I cycled here years ago and stayed in the forest and remember waking up to the most incredible dawn chorus - have a recording of it at my parents in the uk.

Was little concerned for time so pushed on. Whole day series of hills until some flat nearing dargaville. Somehow I made it there just after 2pm and went to the library got changed, relaxed had cuppa of tea. Met lovely lady at the gig who was going to do some story hunting for me and a promise to head to museum when I return in summer - lots of potential stories here. The reporters who came also putting word out so that's cool. Lovely staff and had nice time albeit small numbers but the all at work at 3:45pm!

Went to campsite - wind picked up and yet another German lad who had been listening at the library rushed over to help - I like that - what a sweety. He was here kumera picking with another friend. Must be hard work.

Day five Raetae to Omepere

2011-11-01T02:12:00.001-07:00

Long day in terms of mileage. Left around 9.15am in the rain and cycled for the whole 90 odd km in the rain! First hour constant climb through gorge up to 383m then whizz down and cycle to ferry. Two dollars to cross meeting few tourists on route. Fish and chips for lunch at Rawene - cute wee place. Arrived at Omepere at 2.30pm!! Ended up at back packers - best decision. Great place and fanboy people. Went off to local four square bought dinner and bottle of red and made huge meal for four of us - hot salad with steak and avocado and kumera and great chat. Get to sleep in a real bed! Tomorrow Omepere to Dargaville through the kauri forest and gig at 3.45pm now least here I know things but different!

Oh almost forgot wired thing of the day was a fence lined with skins and heads of wild pigs along the way. Also the two German girls also knew the Dutch family! Small world!

Day Four 90mile beach to Raetae

2011-11-01T01:44:00.001-07:00

After passing very lovely campsite 40km north of Kaitaia because I didn't feel I had done enough mileage I settled for campsite close to Kaitaia at the bottom of 90 mile beach. After the gorgeous doc campsites the 18 bucks for me and tent seemed expensive. Place ok but not a patch on the other ones. Still hot shower etc fab. Walk to the beach in the morning and easy cycle to Kaitaia next day. Really disappointed in library as not even poster out and with an announcement I was supposed to play to people who didn't know who I was and were busy looking for books.....so I didn't. Fortunately family sat down and as they were four generations back they invited me to their place for lunch, talk and old photographs. Lovely young Maori man heard I was a songwriter and wanted to chat so we all head up the road..... one story collected and fab time with all. Left around 3.30pm and just went 15 km to very basic doc campsite. Long drop toilet and that was it!! Felt a bit vulnerable there...

Day three Cycle CapeReinga to Kaitaia

2011-10-30T11:18:00.001-07:00

So this has been the longest and most exhausting day so far! It was this morning I saw the seal or was it a sea lion ?! Anyway Dutch family took me to the road so I could avoid the unsealed section down to the camp - was really steep!!

Then started to make my way south. First part felt much faster than way up getting to the 15km from cape quite quickly but the hot weather and constant hills wore me out and had to walk with bike up some of the sections as gears not low enough to manage the load - might have to get that sorted!

Made it back to Te Kao - no tourist buses this time but passed a few on the roads. Meant to say most drivers cheered me on or gave me a wave which was cool! At Te Kao I had an ice cream and pie - quick lunch and should get me going with the steak!!

Scenery gorgeous and I started making up adverts for the many run down places up there that seemed to have been abandoned .... Landscape quite barren - thought there'd be more trees but most of the land is sand so that explained that one!

Te Kao to Pukenui felt easier as the hills lessened and here I stopped off for fruit and a yoghurt- going off stodgy now and craving fruit and veggies. Oh here is the place to buy advocadoes - really cheap!!

Pukenui to 14 km north Kaitaia was the hardest stretch as I was nearing the 100km mark for that day. Was so relieved to see the campsite sign 90 mile beach campsite. Another 5km to cycle to campsite - first hot shower in three days, washing done and dinner eaten and finally get connected.

Campsite ok but not a patch on the DOC ones I had stayed in. Thought this would be on the beach - off to explore now before breakfast and then 20km cycle to Kaitaia for first gig. Feel a little sick today - must drink more water - 3 litres a day on cycle not enough!!

Oh and interesting sites on the way - emu, turkeys, king fishers, seal, dead possums on the road, cemetery with AB support - new meaning to supporting team!

That's me over and out till hopefully tomorrow or next signal.

Day 2 Cycle Rawera Beach to Cape Reinga

2011-10-30T02:44:00.001-07:00

On way out of Rawera Beach I bumped into this guy who had just about finished his run from Bluff to Cape Reinga for Stroke. Running!! He thought 100km a day sounded a lot and he laughed at my 36km backwards cycle on day 1!

The hills to the cape were exhausting - weight too heavy on bike and I ran out of water so turned off to campsite at taputepute (need to check spelling) but another gorgeous DOC (department of conservation) site and I plonked my tent with its full sea view. Met fab Dutch family who are traveling for 10 months around the world!! Their daughter showed me this sea lion that had chime up on the beach to sun bathe!

Oh at Te Kao met these two motorcycle guys and after chatting one of them Richard gave me 20 for the refuge - how cool is that!

Anyway after setting up tent I hopped on bike up the rough road to the cape to catch it before night fell. Fantastic! Even did wee video of me singing song on uke! Back to campsite, food and sleep!

Day 1 Cycle Kaitaia to Rawera Beach

2011-10-30T02:28:00.001-07:00

Caught 8am flight Auckland to Kaitaia - smallest plane I've ever been on in nz!

Arrived to smallest airport I've seen! Put cycle together thanks also to help from airport staff!! Headed north went as far Pukenui stopped to get supplies and when I came out I headed off full of beans ... In the wrong direction!! Unfortunately it took me 18km to realize - had to turn back and decided to go as far as Rawera. My 96km was only 60km on way up!!

Camped at Rawera Beach - Doc campsite and absolutely gorgeous!! Met German father and son and English couple. Had first swim in sea - bit cold but fantastic!! Sleep ...

Thank you

2011-10-30T02:14:00.001-07:00

Before I start I need to say a few thank you to .... Soph for looking after my gear. Feeding me breakfast before heading to wellington... To Jane and Mike for picking me and cycle from train station and getting us to airport on time... To jet star man for letting my cycle on... To Carol for taking me to Auckland airport to catch flight to Kaitaia ....

The voyage up!

2011-10-26T23:09:00.001-07:00

Today has been somewhat stressful.didn't go to bed last night as too much to sort. Caught 6am train to waikanae got gear caught 9.30 train and was rescued by the lovely Jane who drive me and bike to the airport.had horrific time dismantling bike into box andy sellotape finished midway despite being new! Bike and gear over weight but lovely jetstar let me off and I got on the plane and fin landing got my gear and after much hunting found storage for the night and am in devonport heading out to play at cafe 121. 8am flight tomorrow to kaitaia and there start cycling. X

The night before ......

2011-10-25T22:31:00.000-07:00

So here we are. Just about to pack my pannier bags and head on out this evening to watch Pauline Scanlon touring from Ireland and a friend and great bass player Andy Laking play in Palmerston North. Still a few things to finish off but pretty much there now. The painting experience of my bicycle was an interesting one. To be honest last night I didn't think I'd be able to put it back together having pulled it apart completely but this morning saw me finish that and try and tidy up the ugly pink and green paint job. The guys at the bike shop actually rather liked it - no accounting for taste!! Hopefully no one nicks it though - if you see this bike without me on it grab it will you!! Right better finish packing.........

Preparation

2011-10-25T03:40:00.000-07:00

In just a few days time I will head up to Kaitaia and start my cycle tour from Cape Reinga to Bluff. I then catch a flight up to Christchurch to join friends for a one off concert on the 25th November - all in support of the Christchurch Women's Refuge Centre.

Along the way I will be performing some of the songs I have written from the stories I collected on my two month tour in April. These songs are of women's lives in 1800's NZ - check out my website for more info.

I'm just hoping I make it through the whole journey - I know its not going to be easy with 100km cycling to do each day but I need a challenge! So keep up with what's happening by dropping by to see how I get along...